Toronto City Guide

Orientation

Toronto

Capital of the province of Ontario, Toronto sits in the heart of the Great Lakes region of southeastern Canada, on the northwestern shore of Lake Ontario. The city is 350km (220mi) southwest of Ottawa, 500km (310mi) southwest of Montréal, 560km (350mi) west of New York City and 335km (210mi) northeast of Detroit.

The downtown area is clasped on almost all sides by a hotchpotch of bohemian, ethnic and historic neighbourhoods, with the remaining southern edge crisply defined by Lake Ontario, one of North America's Great Lakes. Yonge St, the main north-south artery, stretches about 18km (11mi) north from Lake Ontario through the central downtown area and beyond the city's northern boundary. Bloor, Queen and College Sts are the main east-west streets. At the lakeshore (south) end of Yonge St is the semi-developed Harbourfront area. Two blocks west is the CN Tower and the SkyDome, Toronto's vast sports arena. North of the arena, Chinatown starts along Dundas St, just west of Yonge. Just north of that is the bustling university area and Yorkville, and to the west, Little Italy and The Annex. To the east of downtown lies Cabbagetown, an increasingly gentrified neighbourhood that retains some Irish immigrant character. The Toronto Islands sit not far offshore in Lake Ontario.

Pearson International Airport is 27km (17mi) northwest of the downtown area, near Etobicoke. The cheapest way to get to/from the airport is by a combination of subway and bus, but there are also direct buses, taxis and hotel shuttles. Allow at least an hour if travelling by public bus from downtown Toronto. Ferries run every 15 minutes to the City Centre Airport from Bathurst St on Toronto's lakefront. The trip takes just minutes. The VIA Rail terminal, grand old Union Station, is a few blocks north of the Harbourfront area on Front St. The main bus terminal is at the edge of Chinatown on the corner of Bay and Dundas Sts.

Visas Overview

Most Western visitors don't need a visa to visit Canada for up to 180 days. Travellers from about 150 nations, including South Africa, China, North Korea, Taiwan, Eastern European and developing countries, however, do need to apply for a Temporary Resident Visa (TRV) with the Canadian consulate in their home country. TRVs good for a single entry cost 75.00 CAD and are valid for up to six months. For the latest details check the website of Citizenship and Immigration Canada at (www.cic.gc.ca).

Customs Overview

Personal effects such as sports equipment, cameras and laptops can be brought into Canada without much trouble. Declaring these to customs as you cross the border might save you some hassle when you leave, especially if you are going back and forth across the US-Canada border more than once. Importing or exporting money in any form up to a value of 10000.00 CAD can be done without formality, but larger amounts must be reported to customs. Under most circumstances, it is illegal to bring firearms, pepper spray or mace into Canada. Complicated regulations also govern the import of fruit, vegetables and plants, so check with a Canadian consulate in your home country for exact details. Don't even think about bringing in illegal drugs, including marijuana and hashish, as sentences can be tough.

Because of foot-and-mouth disease and mad cow disease, bringing in any meat products is not recommended, and carrying perishable food (such as fresh produce) and plant material of any sort may be more trouble than it's worth.

If you're travelling with a dog or cat, make sure you have a signed and dated certificate from your vet to prove that Fluffy has had a rabies shot in the past 36 months.

For more information, check the website of the Canada Border Services Agency (www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

Duty Free

Adults (generally anyone aged 18 or 19, depending on the province) can bring in 1.5L of wine (50ozs) or 1.1L (40ozs) of liquor or a case of 24 12-ounce (300ml) beers as well as 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, 200g (7ozs) of tobacco and 200g of tobacco sticks (all cheaper in the USA). You can bring in gifts up to 60.00 CAD in value.

Getting There and Away

Toronto is served by two airports: Pearson International Airport and the Toronto City Centre Airport. Pearson is by far the busiest airport in Canada. The smaller Toronto City Centre Airport is used by regional and charter airlines. Almost all tickets for flights departing Canada, whether purchased in Canada or abroad, include departure tax.

Numerous Ontario buses and Canada-US Greyhound buses leave from the Metro Toronto Coach Terminal at the corner of Bay and Dundas Sts. Some buses also depart from an adjacent terminal on the western side, including GO Transit commuter services. Trains remain Canada's most enjoyable and romantic way to travel, though they're more expensive than buses, and, in many cases, flights. Grand old Union Station downtown is served by VIA Rail and GO Transit commuter trains. Reservations are essential, and various passes are available. The US Amtrak train company also runs services between the US and Canada.

Expressways on all four sides of Toronto experience continual congestion and, except during winter, construction never ends. Still, car and motorcycle travel allow you to choose your own route. If you can get to Pelee Island, Ontario, a ferry crosses over to the US, to Ohio. Innovative, alternative services - such as jump-on and jump-off buses (geared to budget travellers and hostellers) also operate throughout Canada.

Getting to Toronto and Away by Train

Canadians feel a special attachment to the 'ribbons of steel' from coast to coast, although they don't take the train very often. Union Station downtown has currency exchange booths, a Travellers' Aid Society (tel: 416 366 7788) help desk, wi-fi, and left-luggage lockers. VIA Rail (tel: 416 366 8411, 888 842 7245; www.viarail.ca) services are excellent along the so-called Québec-Windsor corridor, an area of heavy traffic stretching from Québec City to Windsor, Ontario (just across the US-Canada border from Detroit, Michigan). Fares vary wildly, but are significantly cheaper if tickets are purchased at least one week in advance. VIA Rail's Corridor Pass is good for 10 days. Amtrak (tel: 800 872 7245; www.amtrak.com) has several routes between the USA and Canada. International passengers are responsible for securing all documentation (ie passports and visas) prior to on-board customs and immigration procedures. Reservations are required. For fares and schedules, contact Amtrak or stop by the information desk inside Union Station.

Getting to Toronto and Away by Bus

Long-distance buses are cheaper than trains, although not as fast or comfortable. Numerous bus lines covering Ontario, as well as buses within Canada and to US destinations, originate at the Metro Toronto Coach Terminal (tel: 416 393 7911; Dundas Sq, 610 Bay St; subway Dundas), which has coin lockers and a Travellers' Aid Society (tel: 416 596 8647) help desk. When making reservations, always ask for the direct or express bus. Advance tickets do not guarantee a seat. Greyhound (tel: 416 367 8747, 800 661 8747; www.greyhound.ca) covers much of southwestern Ontario, including the Niagara region and Stratford. Discounts on standard one-way adult fares are given to ISIC cardholders, seniors, children and pairs travelling together. Purchase tickets at least a week in advance for the best fares.

Getting to Toronto and Away by Air

Canada's busiest airport, Lester B Pearson International Airport (tel: 416 247 7678, Terminal 3 tel: 416 776 5100; www.gtaa.com), is about a 27km (17mi) drive northwest of downtown Toronto. Most Canadian airlines and major international carriers arrive at Pearson. Tickets for flights departing Canada, whether purchased in Canada or abroad, usually include departure taxes. All terminals have a broad range of passenger facilities and inter-terminal courtesy shuttle buses run frequently. On the Toronto Islands, small Toronto City Centre Airport (tel: 416 203 6942) is used by regional airlines, helicopter companies, charter and private flights. Air Canada Jazz commuter flights from Ottawa to TCAA rather than Pearson are quicker because you're already downtown - and you get a better look at the city, too.

Airport Express (tel: 905 564 3232, 800 387 6787; www. torontoairportexpress.com) operates a 24-hour express bus service that connects Pearson International Airport with the Metro Toronto Coach Terminal and major downtown hotels. Buses depart every 20 to 30 minutes.

Getting Around

Despite its size, Toronto is a very walkable city and its grid layout makes it relatively simple to navigate. It has a good subway, bus and streetcar system, operating under the umbrella of the Toronto Transit Commission (TTC). Once your fare is paid, you can transfer to any bus, subway or streetcar within an hour at no extra charge. Keep in mind, though, that the subway is efficient but somewhat skeletal, streetcars are easy to use but have limited routes downtown and buses are slow - visitors don't usually find much use for them.

Traffic congestion and expensive parking makes driving a better bet for out-of-town excursions. If you're fit enough, walking, cycling and in-line skating are the best ways to explore central Toronto. There are plenty of places to rent bikes and skates, and over 50km (31mi) of bicyle-only routes ensures pleasant cycling. Toronto's taxis are reliable, and in summer sweaty pedicabbies trawl the theatre and Yorkville districts. Ferries will take you to the Toronto Islands, and GO Trains leave from Union Station for points throughout the Toronto suburbs.

Getting Around Toronto by Cycle taxi

Deluxe bicycle rickshaws pedalled by fit young women and men can be hired around downtown during summer. Fares for longer trips should be negotiated with the driver before boarding. Tip generously.

Getting Around Toronto by Ferry

During summer, Toronto Islands ferries (tel: 416 392 8193; www.toronto.ca/parks/island) run every 15 to 30 minutes from 08:00 to 23:30. Queues can be long on weekends and holidays, so show up early. Ferry services are greatly reduced the rest of the year, running every 30 to 45 minutes daily. During winter, ferries service only Ward's Island. The ferry dock is at the foot of Bay St, off Queens Quay, just west of the Westin Harbour Castle.

Getting Around Toronto by Car

Renting a car is only recommended for excursions outside Toronto. Driving in the city is nothing but a headache because urban expressways are continually congested and, except during winter, construction never ends. Rental rates go up and down like the stock market, so it's worth phoning around or surfing the Web to see what's available.

Getting Around Toronto by Taxi

Taxis can be flagged on the street or you can find taxi ranks outside of hotels, museums, shopping malls and entertainment venues. Reliable companies include Crown Taxi (tel: 416 292 1212; www.crowntaxi.com), Diamond Taxicab (tel: 416 366 6868; www.diamondtaxi.ca) and Royal Taxi (tel: 416 777 9222; www.royaltaxi.ca), which has a fleet of wheelchair-accessible taxis.

Getting Around Toronto by Walking

The city centre is pedestrian friendly, with leafy residential neighbourhoods as well as retail strips. In winter, denizens forego often icy sidewalks in favour of the downtown PATH (www.city.toronto.on.ca/path), an underground walkway system. Nearly 30km (19mi) of mazelike tunnels ensure Torontonians never need see the grim light of a winter's day. If you become lost (as you almost certainly will), look up for cardinal directions posted on overhead signs and wall maps.

Getting Around Toronto by Bicycle

Toronto has 50km (31mi) of on-street bicycle lanes and over 40km (25mi) of marked routes for bicycles. In-line skaters can use sidewalks, but it is illegal for cyclists to do so. The free Toronto Cycling Map is distributed by the Toronto Cycling Committee (tel: 416 392 7592; www.city.toronto.on.ca/cycling/index.htm) located at City Hall, tourist offices and bicycle shops. Bicycles are permitted on TTC buses, streetcars and subways, except during weekday morning (06:30to 09:30) and afternoon (15:30to 18:30) rush hours or at other times when vehicles become heavily crowded. Bicycles are allowed on some, but not all, ferries to the Toronto Islands; restrictions usually apply during peak periods.

Getting Around Toronto by Underground rail

Subway lines operate from approximately 06:00 (09:00 on Sunday) until 01:30 daily, with trains every five minutes. Stations have clearly marked Designated Waiting Areas (DWAs) monitored by security cameras and equipped with a bench, pay phone and an intercom link to the station manager; they are located where the subway guard's car stops along the platform.

Getting Around Toronto by Tram

Streetcars are slower than the subway, but they stop more often (usually every block or two). Streetcars display their route number and final destination on both the front and rear cars. On weekdays they usually operate from 05:00 until 01:30, with reduced service on weekends. Routes are numbered in the 500s and streetcars roll on St Clair Ave and College, Dundas, Queen and King Sts (all of which run east-west). Bathurst St and Spadina Ave streetcars mainly run north-south, then turn at the lakefront west toward the Canadian National Exhibition (CNE) grounds (511 Bathurst) or east toward Union Station (510 Spadina). The 509 Harbourfront streetcar travels from Union Station along Lake Shore Blvd west to the CNE grounds.

Getting Around Toronto by Bus

Visitors won't find much use for TTC buses, which are slow and get held up in traffic. Women travelling alone between 21:00 and 05:00 can request special stops anywhere along regular bus routes; notify the driver in advance and exit via the front doors. Bus stops with blue-banded poles are part of the limited Blue Night Network operating basic routes around the city between 01:30 and 05:00 daily every 30 minutes or better. For more far-flung travel, the TTC system connects with bus routes in surrounding suburbs such as Richmond Hill and Brampton. For information on these routes, contact GO Transit (tel: 416 869 3200, 888 438 6646; www.gotransit.com).